China Report

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Thursday, August 16, 2007

The Art of Tea Drinking


The Chinese people are without a doubt the ones who best understand the nature of tea. Tea has a long history over 2,000 years old, and is a common thread running through our culture. Tea drinking has become a form of artistic and intellectual expression in Chinese culture, and is rich in tradition. Many relationship with tea, though of superficial origins, grew more and more profound over time. The significance of tea began to assert itself in the Tang and Song Dynasties. It was during this time that the art of tea was born. The Tea Classics, written by Lu Yu during the Tang Dynasty, helped to elevate tea drinking to a high status throughout China.
It was somewhere between the Tang and Song Dynasties that the custom of tea drinking was brought to Japan, which readily adopted the Chinese custom. But there were, and still are, differences between the Japanese and Chinese interpretations of the art of tea drinking.
Chinese people tend to view tea drinking as a natural form of enjoyment, unlike the Japanese, who approach the concept in a very strict and ritualistic fashion. In spite of its popularity throughout the ages, the Chinese have never elevated tea to the god-like status it enjoys in Japan. Rather, tea is something one drinks after a meal; it is merely a part of one's life. For a Chinese to say anything more of tea than this would be to misunderstand its purpose, which can be anything but to be worshipped. The attitude Chinese take toward tea drinking is in many ways symbolic of their relatively balanced position towards different attitudes and behaviors. One could say that in the Chinese interpretation of the art of tea, one can find the source their open mindedness.
But it wasn't until the Song Dynasty that tea drinking really became in vogue. Even the Emperor indulged in this new and wonderful custom, which subsequently drew tea-growers to the capital every spring to pay tribute to the Son of Heaven. The Emperor gave tea as a gift to those worthy of the honor, which not only helped increase the drink's popularity, but also helped spread elevate its value. Books, poems, and paintings about tea became increasingly popular.
With the passing of the Yuan, and the start of the Ming and Qing Dynasties, the technology of tea production was constantly being improved; not only in an effort to enhance its flavor, but also to further simplify its production. By this time, tea houses were popping up all over the country. Tea-drinking establishments could be found at any public gathering place or point of interest; temples, palaces, even famous mountains had their respective tea vendors.
Li Ri Hua, a Ming Dynasty scholar, once said: "One should clean out a room in one's home and place only a tea table and a chair in the room with some boiled water and fragrant tea. Afterwards, sit salutarily and allow one's spirit to become ranquil, light, and natural." Li Ri Hua used tea drinking to calm his spirit and clear his mind. He practiced the art of living naturally, avoiding outside influences.
During the same period, a man by the name of Luo likened the drinking of tea to a spiritual release, unique to every individual. It was people like Luo who cultivated the artistic conception of tea, which represents the Chinese way of turning the mundane things in life into ones of higher meaning.
Though its history is indeed lengthy, the art of tea drinking is not without competition. The introduction of coffee by the West, along with its own culture, is believed by some to be destroying the virtues of tea drinking in the modern age with slick advertising that promotes outside values and life-stles. Now, coffee houses in Taiwan outnumber their tea-peddling counterparts, driving them slowly out of business. Even though the quality of Taiwanese tea has improved over the years, tea drinking simply cannot compete any longer.
Over the last few years, through the efforts of people who care deeply for the culture and history of tea, various tea associations have been founded. This, along with the publication of many books and articles on the subject, has begun a tea revival of sorts. But we must be careful not to let the art of tea drinking become some complex concept that is difficult to appreciate or to understand. Only by returning to the old principles of simplicity and universality can we hope to see the art of tea regain its popularity or old.

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